Tuscany '97 versus '99

Go to your local wine store and ask, “What’s the best Tuscan vintage of the nineties?” The answer you will almost always receive is ‘97, which is a shame because ‘97 never lived up to the hype. What ‘97 did stand for was a turning point in Tuscan winemaking. It was a time when most producers had made major changes in their viticulture, and winemaking practices literally cleaned up the wine coming out of Tuscany. There were many producers that were making very good wine before ’97, but ’97 marked a movement in quality across the entire spectrum. The days of a typical Chianti reeking of dirty barrels and tasting either chunky or diluted had ended.

It was with this in mind that I recently attended a ’97 versus ’99 Sangiovese tasting. I was positive that I already knew what the outcome would be. However, I did keep an open mind, because if there’s one rule that any wine lover should always live by, it’s that it’s better to buy the producer over the vintage--meaning that the best producers will often find a way to make great wine, even in lesser vintages.

So with all my preconceptions tossed to the wind, I began to taste. What did I find? If I want to paint broad strokes, what I expected to find, and did, is that the ’97s were far more advanced than the ‘99s with most of the ‘99s only just starting to enter their drinking windows. However, what I didn’t expect was how much I truly enjoyed the ’97 Gagliole and Castellare di Castellina (and the Fontalloro was no slouch either). This tasting turned from a battle of supremacy into something much more; a study of vintage characteristics and a truly enjoyable tasting.

The 1999 Fattoria di Fèlsina Berardenga Fontalloro, ended up as my highest-scoring wine. However, if I wanted to drink something tonight, the 1997 Castellare di Castellina I Sodi di San Niccolò was simply spellbinding.

On to the notes:

Fattoria Viticcio

1997 Fattoria Viticcio Prunaio Toscana IGT – The nose was musty, and showed black cherry, minerals, plum and cinnamon. It was rich and ripe on the palate with intense cranberry, sweat spice, granny smith apple and a hint of perceptible heat. The finish showed cranberry but was marred with searing acidity. In the end, this bottle may have been slightly corked. (86 points)

1999 Fattoria Viticcio Prunaio Toscana IGT – The nose showed crushed red berries, licorice, mountain herbs and chalky minerals. On the palate, it was focused and elegant with blackberries and spice, followed by hints of lingering structure. The finish was long with sour red fruits. (90 points)

Fattoria di Fèlsina

Year in and out, Felsina continues to show that they can make great wines in almost any vintage. Considering that today’s price point of Fontalloro is still in the $40-$45 range, it is easily one of the best values in age-able wine.

1997 Fattoria di Fèlsina Berardenga Fontalloro – The nose showed undergrowth, old library book, animal musk and berry tartlet. On the palate it was lively with balanced acidity showing dark red fruits, licorice and spices. The finish was long and staying with hints of structure. It was highly enjoyable and somehow warmer and furrier than the ‘99. (90 points)

1999 Fattoria di Fèlsina Berardenga Fontalloro - The nose showed plums, strawberry jam and floral stems. On the palate, I found leaner fruit than the ’97 yet it was focused and intense on its own with tart red berries and a hint of pepper and spice. The finish was staying with intense red fruits and mouth-coating tannins. The fruit was leaner yet still more intense that the ’97 with superb balance and many years of development in store. (94 points)

Gagliole

In the case of Gagliole, these were not the same bottle from two different vintages. Here, the ’97 was 90% Sangiovese with an addition of 10% Cabernet. In the end, the ’97 won out, but it was likely because of the extreme oak that showed through in the ’99.

1997 Gagliole Colli della Toscana Centrale IGT (10% Cabernet) – The ever-changing nose showed crushed fall leaves, herbal tea, brown sugar, musk, and strawberry jam. On the palate, it was velvety with sweet dark red fruits, a hint of vanilla and dark wood tones with fresh acidity keeping it exciting. The finish showed clean, sour red fruits. (92 points)

1999 Gagliole Pecchia Colli della Toscana Centrale IGT (100% Sangiovese) – On the nose, it came off as murky with dried red fruits, herbal tea, minerals, undergrowth and earth. On the palate, it was rich with an airy lift, intense red fruits, and charred woods, yet it was unbalanced and cloying. The finish was long with sour, bitter red fruits. (87 points)

Castellare di Castellina

This was the first chance I had to taste a Castellina I Sodi San Niccolò with any age on it, and let me just say, WOW! These were both beautiful and made a good case for putting some younger vintages away in the cellar.

1997 Castellare di Castellina I Sodi di San Niccolò Colli della Toscana Centrale IGT – On the nose, I found dark wild berries, sweet spice, coffee grinds, cherry pipe smoke, and hints of undergrowth and acetone. On the palate, it was rich and ripe, yet still coloring within the lines, with black cherry, sweetened sun tea and brisk acidity that gave it a juicy and almost electric presence. The long finish showed jammy red fruits, which was balanced by remnants of mouthwatering acidity. (93 points)

1999 Castellare di Castellina I Sodi di San Niccolò Colli della Toscana Centrale IGT – On the classically-styled nose, I found tart red fruits, floral notes, barnyard and herbs. On the palate, it was velvety and balanced with fresh focused red fruits, cedar and soft herbal notes, yet it remained fresh and pulsing throughout. The finish showed pure spicy red fruits. (92 points)

San Giusto a Rentennano

If you fashion yourself an Italophile, than there’s a good chance that you’ve heard of the 1990 Percarlo, a truly epic wine. It’s unfortunate that the ’97 didn’t come close to expectations but the ’99 was spellbinding, and will easily continue to age. This is a wine to buy if the chance arises.

1997 San Giusto a Rentennano Percarlo Toscana IGT – On the nose, I found sweet floral notes with cinnamon and tarragon. On the palate, it was balanced and juicy with ripe wild berries and sweet spices. Wood tannins began to build toward the finish and took over. The finish was long yet tannic with blackberry and herbal notes. (88 points)

1999 San Giusto a Rentennano Percarlo Toscana IGT – The nose was elegant and finessed, showing sweet spices, rich red fruits, woodland notes, a hint of black licorice. On the palate, it showed impressive weight, yet was juicy and fun with lots of pure red berry fruits, cedar and herbs. The finish was pure and clean with staying tannin wrapped dried red fruits. (94 points)

Marchesi Mazzei Castello di Fonterutoli

The Siepi is a wine I’ve often seen and never tasted. With a healthy dose of Merlot, these wines take on a completely unique profile from the others in the tasting.

1997 Marchesi Mazzei Castello di Fonterutoli Siepi Toscana IGT – On the nose I founds intense savory notes of sautéed onion and curry. Notes of dried raspberry were found with coaxing as the nose settled with time. On the palate, it was velvety and dark with earthy red and black fruits, as it turned soft and juicy yet lacked depth. Masses of dry tannin were found on the finish, yet there was still a solid core of fruit. (91 points)

1999 Marchesi Mazzei Castello di Fonterutoli Siepi Toscana IGT – The nose was dark and mysterious, showing a mix of sweet berries, spice, and cedar. On the palate, it was soft with dark red fruits, herbal tea and zesty acidity but a little one-dimensional. The finish was medium-long with lingering red fruits. (90 points)

The Rundown

1997 Castellare di Castellina I Sodi di San Niccolò – (93 points)
1997 Gagliole Colli della Toscana Centrale IGT – (92 points)
1997 Marchesi Mazzei Castello di Fonterutoli Siepi IGT – (91 points)
1997 Fattoria di Fèlsina Berardenga Fontalloro – (90 points)
1997 San Giusto a Rentennano Percarlo Toscana IGT – (88 points)
1997 Fattoria Viticcio Prunaio Toscana IGT – (86 points)

1999 Fattoria di Fèlsina Berardenga Fontalloro - (94 points)
1999 San Giusto a Rentennano Percarlo Toscana IGT – (94 points)
1999 Castellare di Castellina I Sodi di San Niccolò – (92 points)
1999 Marchesi Mazzei Castello di Fonterutoli Siepi IGT – (90 points)
1999 Fattoria Viticcio Prunaio Toscana IGT – (90 points)
1999 Gagliole Pecchia Colli della Toscana Centrale IGT – (87 points)

1979: Barolo Retrospective

Drink ‘em if you got ‘em

Sometimes you just have to let go of the ghost. For years I’ve read about the ’79 Barolo vintage being the underdog that was foreshadowed by the towering ’78s. Many merchants have used this angle when offering this vintage to me. However, from my most recent tasting of ’79 Barolo, I think it’s time that we stop buying these and start drinking them.

The Roagna Barbaresco
Crichet Pajé. One of the strangest
performances of the night.

It’s unfortunate, but the majority of the bottles tasted have come as far as they can and are simply tired and dried out. The hallmark acidity of this vintage now rears its ugly head as the fruit fades, turns lean and penetrating flavors of citrus rind and pith coat the palate. Some of these were highly enjoyable, but I won’t be adding them to my cellar.

My favorites on this night were the Breze and Vietti Briacca. Both were formidable wines that have seen better days yet are fading with grace. In the end, if you own ’79 Barolo, you don’t need to run to the cellar right this minute, but it’s certainly time to consider drinking these wines.

On to the wines:

1979 Francesco Pittatore Barolo Ponte Rocca Brunate – The nose showed wet tobacco, sweet woodland notes with vibrant red berry and a hint of mint. On the palate, it was broad yet vibrant and light on its feet, showing soil covered red fruits and inner aromas of mushroom. The finish was long and feminine with staying red berry fruit and a hint of remaining structure. (90 points)

1979 Azienda Bricco Rocche (Ceretto) Barolo Brunate – The nose showed animal musk, dark fruits, crushed leaves, and intense floral notes. On the palate, it was rustic with lean dried fruits that turned juicy and were joined by notes of savory broth. This was still highly enjoyable, but with no upside potential, it should be drunk now. (87 points)

1979 Marcarini La Serra – On the nose, I found sweet beefy notes, spice, saline minerals and a mixture of floral, soil and undergrowth. On the palate, it was mouth-filling, showing citrus rinds and herbal tea leaf. The finish showed lots of acidity and citrus notes. (89 points)

1979 Cordero di Montezemolo Barolo Monfalletto – On the nose, I found a whiff of old library book, crushed cherry, tamarind and potpourri. On the palate, it was lean with vibrant acidity and rustic dried cherry fruits. The finish was long with mouth-coating fruit and inner aromas of medicinal herbs. (87 points)

1979 Vietti Barolo Briacca – The nose was intense with dark ripe strawberry, dried flowers, and medicinal herbs. On the palate, it was feminine and balanced with finessed, lean red fruit and citrus rinds. The finish was long and fresh showing sour berries. (91 points)

1979 Fratelli Brovia Barolo Rocche dei Brovia – The nose showed sweet, ripe red fruits, undergrowth and mushroom. On the palate, inner floral and undergrowth notes dominated, as this wines broad yet elegant texture opened up to reveal dark red fruits, both sweet and sour with vibrant acidity. (89 points)

1979 Azienda Bricco Rocche (Ceretto) Barolo Prapò – The nose was dark with rich red fruit, buttery tartlet crust, and herbs. On the palate, it was light on its feet and finessed, showing juicy red berries but turning chunky toward the finish and fading quickly. (85 points)

1979 Roagna Barbaresco Crichet Pajé – The nose showed horseradish, soil, and herbs. On the palate, it was vegetal, with pepper, herbs, citrus rinds and lots of acidity. The vegetal notes continued on the finish. It was certainly an interesting wine but honestly not enjoyable to drink. (80 points)

1979 Giacomo Brezza Figli Barolo Sarmassa e Castellero – The classically-styled nose showed tar, rose water, a slight spice, lots of floral notes and red berries. On the palate, it was rich and full with soft dried cherry fruit that turned juicy toward the close. This wine was easygoing on the palate and gorgeous on the nose. (91 points)

1979 Cantina Mascarello Barolo – On the nose, I found tangy, spicy floral notes, old library book and lean red berries. On the palate, intense but overripe fruit flooded the senses but dropped off quickly to reveal drying and mouth-puckering tannin. (84 points)

The Italian Wine Masters: 2006 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva

It was obvious at this year’s Italian Wine Masters event that many attendees were there to taste the new 2007 Brunello vintage. However, in this humble taster’s opinion, it didn’t take long for the 2006 Brunello Riservas to steal the show.

Last year, the 2006 Brunello di Montalcino normale were firm and structured with a core of intense fruit restrained within. In other words, they were full of potential. However, it’s amazing to me what the same producers can accomplish with the extra year of aging that qualifies the wines for Riserva status.

Often, a Riserva will come from a single vineyard or a special parcel within the same vineyard as the normale bottle. Sometimes it’s just those few casks in the cellar that demand special attention. In the end, whether that extra year is spent in barrel or bottle, I find Brunello Riservas to be the bottles I choose for my cellar and well worth the extra tariff.

Comparing these wines to the 2007 vintage is like comparing apples to oranges. The ’06 Riservas have all the structure and pent up intensity as the regular bottles, but with rich, darker tones that will flesh out into layers to be peeled back through decades in your cellar.

I know it can be hard to look back when a new vintage hits the shelf. However, I believe that any serious lover of Brunello should be considering the ’06 Riservas for their cellar.

On to the notes:

2006 Capanna Brunello di Montalcino Riserva – The nose showed dark, sweet red berries, herbs, cedar and an airy pine nettle note. On the palate, it was full, velvety and balanced with ripe red berries and spice against a firm lurking structure. The finish was long with mouth-coating tannin showing at the close. It was a total joy to drink and a bottle that has already found its way into my cellar. (96 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

2006 Tenuta Oliveto Brunello di Montalcino Riserva – The nose of the 2006 Oliveto Brunello Riserva was elegant, showing black cherry, candle wax and floral notes, with dark chocolate and herbs. On the palate, it was smooth and balanced with red fruits and spice that continued to build with time in the glass. The finish was long with sweet spices and silky tannins. (95 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

2006 Il Poggione Brunello di Montalcino Riserva – The nose was intense; in a word, sexy, as sweet red berries, dark chocolate and spice filled the senses. On the palate, it was structured yet still showed masses of sweet, spiced red fruits, earth and soil tones. The finish was long and staying with inner floral notes. (94 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

2006 Uccelliera Brunello di Montalcino Riserva – The nose showed dark, ripe red berries, soil and herbals, along with a sweet spicy sugar note. On the palate, it was velvety smooth with deep red fruits, ripe yet fine with underlying structure that dominated the finish and promised many years of development. (93 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

2006 Pertimali (LivioSassetti) Brunello di Montalcino Riserva – The nose showed dark red fruits and cedar box. On the palate, it was velvety with pure ripe red berries and earth. It was balanced to the core and only showed its refined structure in its tannic finish. (92 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

2006 Pian Delle Vigne (Antinori) Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Vigna Ferrovia – The nose showed black cherries with fresh-turned soil and cedar notes. It was expansive on the palate and filled the senses with tart fruits that turned to rough, drying tannins, which lasted into the finish. (91 points) Find it one Wine-Searcher!

2006 Fattoria dei Barbi (Colombini) Brunello di Montalcino Riserva – The nose showed red berries with soil and floral notes. On the palate, I found lean red fruits and herbs with a fine tannic structure that dominated the finish. This wine will need to be buried in the cellar for at least another ten years before it really starts to shine. (90 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

2006 Donatella Brunello di Montalcino Riserva – The nose showed red berries with herbs and bread crusts. On the palate, it was angular with sour red fruits and a fine structure. The finish was medium in length and pleasant, yet this bottle simply didn’t deliver the goods. (88 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

The Italian Wine Masters: 2007 Brunello di Montalcino

When word of the Italian Wine Masters tasting hit my inbox, I was quick to hit the reply button. In the years I’ve been writing and attending tastings, I don’t recall ever attending a more comprehensive tasting of Sangiovese-based wines from Tuscany. Everything from Chianti Classico, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano and Brunello di Montalcino are all on display. Many of the faces you see are easily recognizable, yet each time I attend, I’m always happy to find new producers and interesting wines that I have never tasted before.

A massive crowd descended upon the
tables of 2007 Brunello di Montalcino

One of my first priorities at this year’s event was to taste 2007 Brunello. The hype over this vintage has been unavoidable. Already the pundits of wine criticism are weighing in and waxing praise upon the vintage. However, I had to wonder if it was truly worthy. Brunello has seen a string of amazing vintages with 2001, 2004 and 2006. However, many people are still recovering from the recent controversy unearthed regarding foreign varietals being added to this wine by a number of Brunello producers, a wine that is only supposed to be 100% Sangiovese by law. Even though the accusations have subsided, Brunellogate, (which this controversy has coined) left many Brunello drinkers feeling betrayed and looking to other Sangiovese-based wines from Tuscany. On top of that, further exploration of pure Sangiovese-based wines in Tuscany has shown that remarkable value can be found outside of Montalcino. Brunello as a brand has continued to rise in price, and many feel that the quality in the bottle no longer outweighs the cost.

In the end, Brunello needs a vintage that it can reinvent itself with, and 2007 may be that vintage. But does that mean that it is as good as the ’06? It really depends on what you want from your bottle of Brunello.

At this time last year, when tasting ’06 Brunello, it was nearly painful to work my way through the tasting simply because of the massive structure found in most bottles. The fruit was clean, pure and deep but not fleshy. The finish was often drying or angular. Yet, on the nose, the wines were highly expressive and layered with masses of fruit, spice and earth—everything a young Brunello should be. We will be enjoying the ’06 vintage for many decades to come, and as they mature, they will only get better.

However, the ’07s are the exact opposite. I don’t recall ever tasting young Brunello that was so vibrant and juicy on the palate. The noses on most of the wines were highly expressive and very ripe. On the palate, they were juicy and opulent, yet not overripe. Their structure could be found in the close or on the second sip, as a build-up of tannins would remind you that this wine has the capacity to age. Yet, through it all, you’d find yourself simply wanting to drink it, and that’s where I believe the ’07 vintage will really find its nitch. These are big and beautiful wines, but it’s almost impossible to keep your hands off them now. However, the ’07 vintage will not outlive ’06, and if it’s classic Brunello that you love, you will not find it here.

My top 5 picks: 2007 Brunello di Montalcino

Azienda Agricola Capanna

The Capanna farm is located north of Montalcino in the area of Montosoli. It’s a family-run operation with help from consulting enologist Paolo Vagaggini. The grapes are hand-selected and harvested, with four years of aging in Slavonian oak cask for the Brunello and five years for the Riserva. The Brunello of Capanna is traditional in style and truly speaks of its Tuscan terroir.

2007 Capanna Brunello di Montalcino – The nose showed black cherry, plums, sweet and spices with savory notes of brown sauce and mountain herbs. On the palate, it was at first lean with mixed berries and herbs, but it filled out with time as the fruit turned darker yet focused with incredible depth, balance and with a fine tannic structure. It’s remarkably more open than expected at this young stage, yet its balance and structure promised a long life ahead. (93 points)

Donatella Cinelli Colombini

Donatella is a large operation and it produces wines in multiple styles, both in and outside of Montalcino. The vineyards are located in the northwest from Montalcino. The Brunello is made at Casato Prime Donno in Montalcino, a winery known to be the first in Italy to be staffed only by women. The base-level Brunello is an enjoyable yet more modern style of Brunello. However, it’s the special selection “Prime Donne” that I love, which is made in a more traditional style with aging in large oak barrels.

2007 Donatella Brunello di Montalcino Prime Donne – The nose was finessed and classic in its performance with dusty red fruits, herbs and old cedar box. On the palate, it showed high-toned red berry fruit with an airy and fresh quality. The finish was long and pure with tannins peaking through at the close. (93 points)

Tenuta Oliveto

Located in Castelnuove dell’Adate, the extreme south of Montalcino, Tenuta Oliveto was a new name to me at last year’s Italian Wine master’s event. However, this year, their wines sang. I actually found it hard to move away from the glass. Vinification takes place in Slavonian oak vats with a maceration of 18 – 20 days. From there, the Brunello sees 30 months in French oak tonneaux before being bottled and rested for another 30 months. Their Brunello is an elegant and wistful wine with soaring aromatics.

2007 Tenuta Oliveto Brunello di Montalcino – The refined nose showed red berries, airy herbal notes and powdered sugar. On the palate, it was velvety yet structured and focused with juicy black cherry and herbs. On the finish, sour berries lingered yet were turned juicy by this wine’s zesty acidity. This wine was a joy to drink. (93 points)

Il Poggione

Father and son team Fabrizio and Alessandro Bindocci make some of the best Brunello from year to year, with the belief that the secret of producing great red wines lies in tending the vines. Rigorous green harvesting is done throughout the vineyards, and selection of the grapes is done by hand. The Brunello is aged in large French oak barrels. Il Poggione is one of the largest estates in Montalcino, with 125 hectares planted with vines, yet the size of the estate never hinders the quality found in the bottle.

2007 Il Poggione Brunello di Montalcino – The nose showed ripe strawberry, cedar and minerals with a hint of caramel. On the palate, it was soft and mouth-filling with dark red fruits, baker’s chocolate and a fine structure that was nearly masked by its ripe, focused fruit. The finish was long, long, long. (92 points)

Col d’Orcia

Col d’Orcia is one of historic properties in Brunello and one of the largest producers. The vineyards are located on the southern slope of Montalcino with 106 hectares planted to Brunello. The Bozzolino vineyard produces their Brunello di Montalcino. Aging of the wine takes place in Slavonian and selected French oak.

2007 Col d’Orcia Brunello di Montalcino – The nose showed vibrant, lush red fruits, spices and herbs. On the palate, it was round yet focused with intense ripe cherry and spice notes. The finish was cut short by youthful tannins yet showed much promise. (91 points)

Other Brunelli tasted for this article

2007 Donatella Brunello di Montalcino – The nose was earthy yet elegant with ripe red berries and forest floor. On the palate, it was velvety with underlying structure and intense yet juicy red berry fruit. The finish was long and clinging to the palate. (92 points)

2007 Campogiovanni (San Felice) Brunello di Montalcino – The nose showed black cherry, floral notes, sweet spice and the slightest hint of barnyard. On the palate, it had a velvety texture with ripe red berries and cinnamon spice. The finish showed its tannic structure yet still managed to carry red fruits into the close. (91 points)

2007 Uccelliera Brunello di Montalcino – The nose was classic and earthy with ripe red berries, soil and minerals. On the palate, it was lean yet focused with strawberry and cedar box. It appeared smaller in scale than most of the ‘07s I’d tasted yet finessed, pure and likely able to mature into something beautiful. The finish was long, showing massive structure. (91 points)

2007 Azienda Agraria Lisini Brunello di Montalcino – The nose showed red berries and spice with pepper and floral notes. On the palate, it was balanced with ripe fruits and a fine elegant structure. The finish was firm, and when placed against it’s intensity of fruit, showed good potential. (90 points)

2007 Fanti (Tenuta San Filippo) Brunello di Montalcino – The nose showed ripe red berries with herbal tea and floral notes. On the palate, it showed intense red fruits and herbs that lingered through the finish. (90 points)

2007 Pian Delle Vigne (Antinori) Brunello di Montalcino – The nose showed ripe berries, wood tones and spice with a hint of undergrowth. On the palate, it was lush with sour red berries and mountain herbs. The finish was long and mouth-coating. (89 points)

2007 Pertimali (Livio Sassetti) Brunello di Montalcino – The nose showed strawberry fruit with undergrowth, soil and herbs. On the palate, it was soft and enveloping with red berries and spice. The finish showed a tight structure with soil and red fruit tones. (89 points)

2007 Frescobaldi Castelgiocando Brunello di Montalcino – The nose showed vibrant red fruits and menthol. On the palate, it was lean with sour red berries, leading into a drying, structured finish. (88 points)

2007 Tenute Silvio Nardi Brunello di Montalcino – The nose showed sour red berries and sweet spice in a bittersweet performance. On the palate, red berries and herbs were on display, yet it came across and one-dimensional and ultimately disappointing through the finish. (85 points)

2007 Fattoria dei Barbi (Colombini) Brunello di Montalcino – The nose showed sour berries and herbs but it was marked by a server aroma of hay and stable. On the palate, it was soft with strawberry fruits but turned bitter and dry into the finish. (84 points)

2007 Capanne Ricci Brunello di Montalcino – The nose showed dried red fruits, funk, manure and old wood. On the palate, it was juicy, showing sweet strawberry, which lasted into the finish. (84 points)

Do you come from a land Down Under?

As much as tourists love them,
kangaroos are a major pest for
Australian wine makers.

Today I am venturing to a location that I seldom touch upon: Australia. It's a wine-producing region that I've formed something of a love-hate relationship with. Don't get me wrong, there are many unique and stunning wines produced throughout Australia. The problem is, in my opinion, that the value wines are usually good, but whenever I want to reach up to the mid-priced or top-shelf bottles, it's a minefield. Also, it seems that whenever I find a bottle I love (Penfolds St. Henri comes to mind), it tends to go up so high in price that any value associated with the wine disappears. And so, like many Americans have done over the last two years, my attention turned away from Australia--until recently.

I've always known that Riesling is grown in Australia, but it took a trusted wine merchant putting the wine in my hands to get me to take the plunge.

Springvale Vineyard

Grosset, located in the historic township of Auburn at the southern tip of the Clare Valley, is now on its thirtieth vintage. It’s led by Jeffrey Grosset, whose emphasis is on purity of fruit and wines that represent the place that they come from, with meticulous care in the vineyards and all handpicked fruit. The wine that really turned my head was the Riesling from Springvale vineyard, located in the northeastern corner of the Clare Valley 's Watervale subregion. I guess what truly made me take notice was how pure yet intense and mineral-driven the wine was. We all make assumptions, and the wrong assumption I had made was that Riesling from Australia would be as big and explosive as many of the other varietals that the country is producing. Instead, I found myself stepping back from the glass, in amazement of how much I truly enjoyed the seamless intensity and layers of citrus-tinged fruits and earth that wafted up from the glass. It was beautiful, and will find a place in my cellar.

2008 Grosset Riesling Springvale Watervale - The nose was gorgeous and pure, showing grapefruit and lemon rinds with wet stone, woodsy funk and hints of green grass. On the palate, it was focused and intense with cleansing acidity, mouthwatering citrus fruits and sour apple that lasted well through the staying and refreshing finish. (91 points)

Find it on Wine-Searcher!

Marcarini Barolo: The Secret Is Out

A bottle I would have
loved to buy upon release.

There was a time when Barolo was cheap, at least by today’s standards. The escalation of Barolo prices was not just the result of inflation. The fact is that there was a time when the wonders of Barolo were only known to a small group of in-the-know wine lovers. Those lucky few built cellars full of some of today’s most collectible wines, and they did it with far less than what you need to stay in the game today.

Nov. 30th 2003 issue
of Wine Spectator

Much of this is due to the growth in popularity during the nineties and Wine Spectator declaring the 2000 vintage of Barolo, “Perfect.” The hype over the vintage in 2000 has now been shown to be unjustified, but the damage was done and the secret was out; Piedmont is producing some of the worlds most remarkable, ageworthy and collectible wines.

However, through all of this, there have been a small number of producers whose wines managed to fly under the radar, and with it, their prices remain very fair. Over time, the dividing line between quality and value has widened, but the conscientious wine lover can still find cellar-worthy, top notch Barolo at a good price. I just don’t know how much longer it can last.

Marcarini Barolo 1964 through 2007

This brings me to Marcarini and their Barolo Brunate. If you drink Barolo, the name Brunate should stand out to you, as it’s one of the most prestigious vineyards within the appellation. It is located at the southern boundary of La Morra with a small portion spilling into the commune of Barolo (the commune, not the wine itself). The Marcarini family is fortunate, as are we, that they have owned a portion of the Brunate vineyard for generations. When I entered the market six years ago, these wines were released at $35 a bottle and they were worth every penny. Now, at an average of $50, they are still a great buy, and a recent retrospective tasting of 12 vintages is all the evidence I need to show why.

Over time, little has changed at Marcarini. It’s a winery that is now run by its fifth generation. The winery itself is modern, but the winemaking is still very much traditional, with four-week long macerations on the skins and aging in medium-sized oak barrels of 20/40 hl. In the vineyards, the yields are low, and composting is organic with a strict selection of the grapes at harvest. Other than a replanting of the vines between 1980 and 1986, and the introduction of temperature-controlled fermentation, these wines are very much the same as what you’d receive in a bottle from 1964. Think of this as you read the notes below; I can’t think of a more ageable, traditional Barolo that I could recommend to you at a better price.

On to the notes:

1964 Marcarini Barolo
Brunate

1964 Marcarini Barolo Brunate – The nose showed sweet dark cherries in soil with crushed fall leaves and dank, moist undergrowth. On the palate, it was lively and clean with dry red fruits, minerals and citrus rind. The finish clung to the palate and left me in awe as I considered the age of this bottle and how well it performed. (94 points)

1967 Marcarini Barolo Brunate – On the nose, I found a bright expression of dried red berry with copper penny and a note raw beef. On the palate, it was lively with inner floral notes and light red fruit until a mineral metallic note took over, which wrapped the palate through the close. (86 points)

1969 Marcarini Barolo Brunate – The nose showed animal musk with strawberry, undergrowth and minerals. On the palate, it showed subdued, lean red fruit, a slight metallic note and old cedar. The finish was drying with sour red fruits. (89 points)

1970 Marcarini Barolo Brunate – The nose showed vibrant cherry, smoke, potpourri, fall leaves and old cedar. On the palate, it was finessed and balanced with zesty acidity, showing red fruits, pencil wood and hints of rust. The finish was medium-long, pleasant and clean with focused dried fruit. (90 points)

1974 Marcarini Barolo Brunate – The nose showed animal musk with earth and crushed cherries in a buttery tartlet shell. On the palate, it was airy and lifted with good acidity, showing red berries and earthy minerals. The finish was staying and wrapped the palate in dried red fruit. (91 points)

1982 Marcarini Barolo Brunate – The nose showed rustic red fruits, musk, crushed fall leaves and a hint of spice. On the palate, it was elegant and still lively with deep, fresh red fruits. This finish was medium-long with silky balance. (93 points)

1985 Marcarini Barolo Riserva Brunate – The nose was vibrant and appealing, showing dried flowers and sweet dusty strawberry. On the palate, I found dark red fruits, with cedar, sweet spice and lively acidity. The finish was clean and fresh with hints of lingering tannin. (92 points)

1989 Marcarini Barolo Brunate – The nose was classic with cherry, airy floral rose, menthol and tar. On the palate, it was smooth as silk with fine tannic structure pulsing through its core, yielding intense, yet focused red fruit and hints of spice. The finish brought more of the same and coated the palate is silky tannin. It’s amazing how young the bottle seemed and even more amazing to think what it may be in another 5–10 years. (94 points)

1990 Marcarini Barolo Brunate – The nose showed rich red fruits, dark wood, crushed fall leaves and a hint of varnish. On the palate, it was clean and focused but ripe with red fruits and lacked the depth of greater vintages. The soft finish melted away from the palate leaving a hint of drying tannin. (89 points)

1995 Marcarini Barolo Brunate - The nose showed dark red fruits and moist earth with sweet spice and cedar wood. On the palate, I found a full-bodied expression of ripe, sweet cherry, cedar and herbs against a balanced structure of tannin, leading to a pleasant finish that turned the sweet cherries to sour berries. (92 points)

1996 Marcarini Barolo Brunate – The nose was massive and brooding with dark red fruit, herbs, rose and tobacco, which closed up quickly in the glass and refused to coax back out to the front. On the palate, smooth dark red fruits caressed the senses but were quickly ushered off as its structure took over the palate. The finish showed mouth-coating tannin with an airy, herbal lift. With time, this may be absolutely gorgeous but on this night, it was a bruiser. (93 points)

2007 Marcarini Barolo Brunate – The nose was sweet and pungent with confectionary fruits, tartlet shell, dark chocolate and plum. On the palate, it was juicy with ripe fruits, spice and mint with a smooth sheen; yet a twinge of burning heat marred the palate into the finish, where tannins took center stage. (89 points)

Find Marcarini Barolo Brunate on Wine-Searcher!

If you made it this far, I’d like to take a moment to make one more recommendation. I seriously urge you to consider some of the other wines from Marcarini as well. Marcarini is well known for the Brunate bottling, yet the Barolo La Serra is another excellent Barolo for the money. La Serra is another single vineyard bottling from the commune of La Morra. While known to be more accessible earlier than the Brunate, it’s still an excellent bottle of Barolo that can provide mid-term cellaring and a great deal of value. Lastly, it’s worth checking out the Dolcetto d’Alba “Boschi di Berri.” In Piedmont, Nebbiolo is king with Dolcetto and Barbera receiving real estate in lesser-known locations. This is not so with the Boschi di Berri, a dolcetto that is made from vines that are literally over 100 years old and planted on native root stocks. It is a wine worth seeking out and should be on the short list of anyone who is looking to explore the wines of Piedmont.